Classic problems....
(Best title I can come up with!)

I would say the most common problem I come across is ....... Jumping up......

People are quite happy for puppies to jump up as they are small cute and fluffy....
However, as the dog grows up, this becomes a problem and the dog doesn't understand that anything has changed....
Classic reasons for Jumping up...

1) People on walks 'I don't mind/I have one at home!'
2) People (including family members) greeting the dog by allowing it to jump up.

How to combat....

1) Teach the dog to do somthing else to get the attention it wants .... sit or lie down.
2) Make sure greetings are done calmly, encouraging the dog to stay with '4 on the floor'. (No excitable voices or fussing - calm tones long strokes)
3) Make visitors to the house ignore the puppy until it has calmed down or sat on its bed
4) Take the puppy to places to teach it that it is not the centre of the universe....towns etc and make sure people who wish to talk to the puppy make it sit/lie down first.

.....was that what you had in mind....?
The only mistakes my dogs make are the ones I've taught them!
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OK let me pick your brain. Other than repeat repeat repeat. How do you teach a dumb dog (ie...Ben E) NOT to jump. The other two are great, Ben E however......just doesnt get it....he's more than a few bulbs short of a chandelier (sp) ..... I'm fairly certain he suffered brain damage when what ever trauma caused him to lose his eye occurred. He's got sit....and 'back up' but thats it. Thats the ONLY thing he's learned since we adopted april. At that, he has zero self control around food. Is it unreasonable to attribute his age to this? (6mos) The other two didnt do this at this point but they ARE borders.... What are your thoughts?
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I would first start self control training, with toys and food...maybe even doing NILIF.

His age is going to make it a bit harder as he is hitting that Tennage stage so will be testing the bounderies.

I would leave a trail lead on him in the house so you can stand on it when he tries to jump up. DON'T pin him to the ground (I'm sure you wouldn't but don't want confusion /laughing). Leave him enough room to stand up but not jump up.

When he sits on the floor give him what he wants - the attention, or food.

Any food reward training you do with him I would drop the rewards on the floor (encouraging him to stay down rather than receiving it form hands).

Will that help for now?
The only mistakes my dogs make are the ones I've taught them!
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god I hope so Smile Thanks
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Rush was terrible about jumping. I was lucky to have a cul-de-sac full of kids for training him. I taught the kids to turn around and walk away from him if he tried to jump when greeting them. I'd also stand on the lead so he could stand but not jump. It took a long time but he eventually got it.

I'm working on it with Indie right now too. I'll usually ask people to wait who ask if they can pet him, then I'll put him in a sit before they approach him. If he starts to jump, I say "No sir" and immediately move away from the people. He's beginning to get the notion that jumping up means losing the attention. When he was loose at the grooming shop, I asked if he jumped on people and they said a few but it only took them a few times of saying No to him that he stopped doing it.
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Crate training?
is it absolutly needed for bc's...or can i just make say the bathroom her quiet spot.caging things makes me uncomfortable....i have a tendancy to empathize .

Should i also use the treats to teach " if " the things she doesnt really brushing her out...i have started to brush her out and well she doesnt like it so i treat her for letting me...i let her smell the brush then i give her a treat(peperonni) then brush her..give her a bit more treat, brush more etc...the treats are tiny little slivers...good idea? does seem to work.I will cut treats out all together when she accepts the brushing overall.

What are some of the more harder things to teach bc...i mean what do they generally dont like..i would like to get the tough stuff out of the way first.

As i know the training is also alot about the owner(cant think of a better word,caregiver,provider)i am going to write a bit of a personal description of myself .
I am a bit cold, i am not emotional or lovey dovey. i am a bit sturn and dont care for repation in anything. i expect the kids and anyone i teach to learn and grow..i dont want to rehash teachings, learn and become.
I am very to myself....i am a alpha male..i am a leader in every aspect of life...i am rough and tumble like ...i like physical play and that is often how i show my love....i am also very intuitive, i am quiet and often sit in silence.
I was raised more like an animal than a person, i was taught to survive on my own, not rely on others for anything and learn fast for often you only had one chance to pick things up.
I have a high IQ my mind never shuts off and i am a deep thinker overall......i have had many animals and all of which i could relate to on a personal level and on an animal instinct level,all of which i was there main caregiver,pal,buddy,friend.....i know what its like to fight for your place and what you have(only the strong survive)I am also artistic and a bit(okay a Lot) of an oddball....i dont do what most people do and i dont have the same value system most do..i would rather have nothing and be happy than have everything and be miserable...materal things mean nothing to me.
My voice is loud ,actually its alot like changes pitch(just manly pitch not girly) and tone emotions are in my voice..usually i am calm , cool , collected..and when i am on an even plain my voice is extremely smooth and deep(manly) not squeeky or high pitched..its rough and tumble like me.
Psychology is a huge factor in my life, it amuses me and often i find myself reading the text for a source of amusement, because what they say in them seems very basic in ideas and idealology to me.....common sense goes along

That should be enough to get an idea of my general being...hope it helps in understanding me so i can do the best for "IF" and training purposes.
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OK......(Deep inhale...)

1) Crate training is useful...Not essential - many people work well with them some do not. I found it great with Siren...she had a big crate, 6 weeks old and her first meal with me in it she never looked back. At 6 months she was out of it....we had a grand total of 6 accidents in the house - 5 minor, 1 major! Tassle was impossible to crate train so it didn't happen. I do advise the use of correct size crates used as a pleasant place NOT a punishment. (Bed/food/chews). Crates can make things safer.....bathroom...shampoos etc....not sure what your set up is but that would be my concern.

2) You need to use a good reward for If when training her something she doesn't like....don;t get your head stuck on food....different rewards for different occassions and different animals.
(Food/toys/freedom/company/Tactile contact/verbal praise) - Find out what she liks and use it to your advantage...remeber variety is the spice of life....even best food in the world becomes boring if you have it all the time.
Try to increase what you are doing fairly day it is 1 brush=reward next day 2 brushes=reward and so on.

3) All dogs are individual - one of the hardest things I find to teach BC's is to chill (settle in one place). They tend to be great at dropping at a distance/chasing a ball - not always thrilled to bring it all the way back - 6 foot is usually close enough :lol:.
Things I found hard with Siren.....
A) Focus on me - not other dogs
B)Come back while othe dogs are running
From the moment I got her I was determined she was going to focus more on me than the other dogs so everything I did with her was geared up to that. I spent ages teaching her to target an empty hand and to maintain focus on my face. I also took her to several classes run by the vets and friends and got her to lie down - I rewarded her every few seconds she remained down, until the she realised that anytime I stopped focusing on her the best way to get my attention was to lie down. She will run all day if need be, but If I need her to settle she will do that to.

4) If is a dog....she will not think entirely like a person....(Try 'The Culture Clash' by Jean Donaldson - thats always fun.) Yes - the psychological rules of behaviour will apply to her - you will probably get quicker results with OC rather than CC, but dogs are not great generalisers - so remember you will need to 're-teach' her certain exercises in new situations. As people, we gereralise very easily so, from what you say about yourself, I would guess that is the biggest obstacle you will (mentally) have to overcome. She will take longer and need more repititions and often smaller steps.

And...breath..... Big Grin
The only mistakes my dogs make are the ones I've taught them!
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Can you specifically define training..i mean what you think i should be doing and give me like a (hypathetical)schedule cuzz i aint getting this working /training thing.....i want whats best for if and i thought good exersise and consistant learing was the right path to be on.
You are telling me less exersize more training..but in truth train her to do what?
I mean all i want her to recall is sit, stay,stand,heal,down(lie),washroom commands,play nice and for us to build our trust of one when i tell her its okay she will trust me.i am sure there is a few more but cant recall them at the momment.
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From the sounds of it (I could be wrong...) It sounds like you want a dog you can take anywhere, the kids can play with and will generally do as she is told.

If this is the senario the things I would work on are self control training and installing an emergancy stop (drop at a distance).

To this end, I would probably teach the following exercises....
1)Watch - maintain focus on the face (with or without distractions)
2)Touch - Target an empty hand (again a focal exercise on your body)
3) Down - close and away
4) Leave - Leave something alone (Ball/stick/cat/ankle/child etc)

I would by no means suggest that this is an exaushive list....but these are such useful exercises and using them alone or combining them in situations will give you control over your dog and get her to focus on you.

Use food/toys/praise combinations as rewards.

Does she go down on a Vocal command or does she need a hand signal.....what you will probably find if you ask her to drop at a distance at the moment she will come back to you and drop - this comes into the fact that dogs don't generalise well, most of your position training will have been done around you so consequently you find that she only understands the command when you are near. Most dogs take a very long time to learn the verbal see if she understand verbal you can lie on the floor with your hand under your back and ask her to sit, or stand in the corner with your back to her - see what she does....

Self control is manners really and it is the basis for all good dogs.
1)Use doorways - (i.e - sit/wait before you go through) I'm not a big one for having to go through before my dogs but I do insist on them doing it politely! (Otherwise I could break a leg with my lot!)
2)Use feeding times.....stay sitting till I tell you to go and eat (Ask her to sit - lower the bowl - if she moves - stand up - ask for the sit again - REWARD with a peice of food from the bowl, she has to realsie the reward will come when she is sitting, repeat until you can place the bowl on the floor.)
3)Use play times, initially having to sit/lie before throwing a it up till she will stay while you throw the toy, then build it up so you can walk her away and send her back to it.

Pick on one thing to practise during a training session/walk and make it fun - 2 mins training 5 mins playing etc. Short quick repititions will enable her to learn quicker.

Training methods to follow (have to find the right file on my PC /laughing )
The only mistakes my dogs make are the ones I've taught them!
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This is a very important exercise to teach your dog. It helps to teach the dog to focus on you whatever else may be going on around. To achieve this it must be practiced in lots of different places with different distractions around.
It is taught using food, but it will not take long for the dog to learn to watch your face.

1. Show the dog the food in your hand and bring it up towards your face.

2. As the dog make eye contact praise and reward your dog. Do not say anything yet.

3. Build up the time your dog can focus on you face to about 20 seconds.

4. Once your dog will do this, start to say WATCH.

5. The next stage is to place both hands behind your back and ask the dog to WATCH go back to rewarding for just brief eye contact and gradually build it back up to about 20 seconds.

6. The final stage is to hold out your hand, with some food, away from your face and ask the dog to watch.

7. Again, go back to rewarding for brief eye contact and build it up to about 20 seconds.

This method should be practiced as often as possible in as many different places as possible to help the dog to generalise. What ever your dog is able to do at home you must reduce by about 70-80% outside.
The only mistakes my dogs make are the ones I've taught them!
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